CONTENTS

  CHAPTER I A Tramp over Europe--On theHolsatia--Hamburg--Frankfort-on-the-Main--How it Won its Name--A Lessonin Political Economy--Neatness in Dress--Rhine Legends--"The Knaveof Bergen" The Famous Ball--The Strange Knight--Dancing with theQueen--Removal of the Masks--The Disclosure--Wrath of the Emperor--TheEnding

  CHAPTER II At Heidelberg--Great Stir at a Hotel--The Portier--Arrivalof the Empress--The Schloss Hotel--Location of Heidelberg--The RiverNeckar--New Feature in a Hotel--Heidelberg Castle--View from theHotel--A Tramp in the Woods--Meeting a Raven--Can Ravens Talk?--Laughedat and Vanquished--Language of Animals--Jim Baker--Blue-Jays

  CHAPTER III Baker's Blue-Jay Yarn--Jay Language--The Cabin--"Hello, Ireckon I've struck something"--A Knot Hole--Attempt to fill it--A Tonof Acorns--Friends Called In--A Great Mystery--More Jays called A BlueFlush--A Discovery--A Rich Joke--One that Couldn't See It

  CHAPTER IV Student Life--The Five Corps--The Beet King--A FreeLife--Attending Lectures--An Immense Audience--IndustriousStudents--Politeness of the Students--Intercourse with the ProfessorsScenes at the Castle Garden--Abundance of Dogs--Symbol of BlightedLove--How the Ladies Advertise

  CHAPTER V The Students' Dueling Ground--The Dueling Room--The SwordGrinder--Frequency of the Duels--The Duelists--Protection againstInjury--The Surgeon--Arrangements for the Duels--The FirstDuel--The First Wound--A Drawn Battle--The Second Duel--Cutting andSlashing--Interference of the Surgeon

  CHAPTER VI The Third Duel--A Sickening Spectacle--Dinner betweenFights--The Last Duel--Fighting in Earnest--Faces and HeadsMutilated--Great Nerve of the Duelists--Fatal Results notInfrequent--The World's View of these Fights

  CHAPTER VII Corps--laws and Usages--Volunteering to Fight--Coolnessof the Wounded--Wounds Honorable--Newly bandaged Students aroundHeidelberg--Scarred Faces Abundant--A Badge of Honor--Prince Bismarkas a Duelist--Statistics--Constant Sword Practice--Color of theCorps--Corps Etiquette

  CHAPTER VIII The Great French Duel--Mistaken Notions--Outbreak in theFrench Assembly--Calmness of M Gambetta--I Volunteer as Second--Drawingup a Will--The Challenge and its Acceptance--Difficulty in Selectionof Weapons--Deciding on Distance--M. Gambetta's Firmness--ArrangingDetails--Hiring Hearses--How it was Kept from the Press--March to theField--The Post of Danger--The Duel--The Result--General Rejoicings--Theonly One Hurt--A Firm Resolution

  CHAPTER IX At the Theatre--German Ideal--At the Opera--TheOrchestra--Howlings and Wailings--A Curious Play--One Season ofRest--The Wedding Chorus--Germans fond of the Opera--Funerals Needed--A Private Party--What I Overheard--A Gentle Girl--AContribution--box--Unpleasantly Conspicuous

  CHAPTER X Four Hours with Wagner--A Wonderful Singer, Once--" Only aShriek"--An Ancient Vocalist--"He Only Cry"--Emotional Germans--AWise Custom--Late Comers Rebuked--Heard to the Last--No InterruptionsAllowed--A Royal Audience--An Eccentric King--Real Rain and More ofIt--Immense Success--"Encore! Encore!"--Magnanimity of the King

  CHAPTER XI Lessons in Art--My Great Picture of Heidelberg Castle--ItsEffect in the Exhibition--Mistaken for a Turner--A Studio--Waitingfor Orders--A Tramp Decided On--The Start for Heilbronn--Our WalkingDress--"Pleasant march to you"--We Take the Rail--German People onBoard--Not Understood--Speak only German and English--Wimpfen--A FunnyTower--Dinner in the Garden--Vigorous Tramping--Ride in a Peasant'sCart--A Famous Room

  CHAPTER XII The Rathhaus--An Old Robber Knight, Gotz VonBerlichingen--His Famous Deeds--The Square Tower--A Curious oldChurch--A Gay Turn--out--A Legend--The Wives' Treasures--A ModelWaiter--A Miracle Performed--An Old Town--The Worn Stones

  CHAPTER XIII Early to Bed--Lonesome--Nervous Excitement--The Room WeOccupied--Disturbed by a Mouse--Grow Desperate--The Old Remedy--A ShoeThrown--Result--Hopelessly Awake--An Attempt to Dress--A Cruise in theDark--Crawling on the Floor--A General Smash-up--Forty-seven Miles'Travel

  CHAPTER XIV A Famous Turn--out--Raftsmen on the Neckar--The LogRafts--The Neckar--A Sudden Idea--To Heidelberg on a Raft--Charteringa Raft--Gloomy Feelings and Conversation--Delicious Journeying--View ofthe Banks--Compared with Railroading

  CHAPTER XV Down the River--German Women's Duties--Bathing as We Went--AHandsome Picture: Girls in the Willows--We Sight a Tug--Steamers on theNeckar--Dinner on Board--Legend "Cave of the Spectre "--Lady Gertrudethe Heiress--The Crusader--The Lady in the Cave--A Tragedy

  CHAPTER XVI An Ancient Legend of the Rhine--"The Lorelei"--CountHermann--Falling in Love--A Sight of the Enchantress--Sad Effecton Count Hermann--An Evening visit--A Sad Mistake--Count HermannDrowned--The Song and Music--Different Trans lations--Curiosities inTitles

  CHAPTER XVII Another Legend--The Unconquered Monster--The Unknown Knight--His Queer Shaped Knapsack--The Knight Pitied and Advised--He Attacksthe Monster--Victory for the Fire Extinguisher--The Knight rewarded--HisStrange Request----Spectacles Made Popular--Danger to the Raft--BlastingRocks--An Inglorious Death in View--Escaped--A Storm Overtakesus--GreatDanger--Man Overboard--Breakers Ahead--Springing a Leak--AshoreSafe--A General Embracing--A Tramp in the Dark--The Naturalist Tavern--ANight's Troubles--"It is the Cat"

  CHAPTER XVIII Breakfast in a Garden--The Old Raven--Castle ofHirschhorn--Attempt to Hire a Boat--High Dutch--What You Can Find outby Enquiring--What I Found out about the Students--A good GermanCustom--Harris Practices It--AnEmbarrassing Position--A Nice Party--At aBall--Stopped at the Door--Assistance at Hand and Rendered--Worthy to bean Empress

  CHAPTER XIX Arrive at Neckarsteinach--Castle of Dilsberg--A WalledTown--On a Hill--Exclusiveness of the People--A Queer Old Place--AnAncient Well--An Outlet Proved--Legend of Dilsberg Castle--TheHaunted Chamber--The Betrothed's request--The Knight's Slumbersand Awakening--Horror of the Lover--The Wicked Jest--The Lover aManiac--Under the Linden--Turning Pilot--Accident to the Raft--FearfulDisaster

  CHAPTER XX Good News--"Slow Freight"--Keramics--My Collectionof Bric-a-brac--My Tear Jug--Henri II. Plate--Specimen of BlueChina--Indifference to the Laugh of the World--I Discover an AntiqueEn-route to Baden--Baden--Meeting an Old Acquaintance--A youngAmerican--Embryo Horse Doctor--An American, Sure--A Minister Captured

  CHAPTER XXI Baden--Baden--Energetic Girls--A Comprehensive Yawn--ABeggar's Trick--Cool Impudence--The Bath Woman--Insolence of ShopKeepers--Taking a Bath--Early and Late Hours--Popular Belief RegardingIndians--An Old Cemetery--A Pious Hag--Curious Table Companions

  CHAPTER XXII The Black Forest--A Grandee and his Family--The WealthyNabob--A New Standard of Wealth--Skeleton for a New Novel--TryingSituation--The Common Council--Choosing a New Member Studying NaturalHistory--The Ant a Fraud--Eccentricities of the Ant--His Deceit andIgnorance--A German Dish--Boiled Oranges

  CHAPTER XXIII Off for a Day's Tramp--Tramping and Talking--StoryTelling--Dentistry in Camp--Nicodemus Dodge--Seeking a Situation--AButt for Jokes--Jimmy Finn's Skeleton--Descending a Farm--UnexpectedNotoriety

  CHAPTER XXIV Sunday on the Continent--A Day of Rest--An Incidentat Church--An Object of Sympathy--Royalty at Church--Public GroundsConcert--Power and Grades of Music--Hiring a Courier

  CHAPTER XXV Lucerne--Beauty of its Lake--The Wild Chamois--A GreatError Exposed--Methods of Hunting the Chamois--Beauties of Lucerne--TheAlpenstock--Marking Alpenstocks--Guessing at Nationalities--An AmericanParty--An Unexpected Acquaintance--Getting Mixed Up--Following BlindTrails--A Happy Half--hour--Defeat and Revenge

  CHAPTER XXVI Commerce of Lucerne--Benefits of Martyrdom--A Bit ofHistory--The Home of Cuckoo Clocks--A Satisfactory Revenge--The AlanWho Put Up at Gadsby's--A Forgotten Story--Wanted to be Postmaster--ATennessean at Washington--He Concluded to Stay A While--Application ofthe Story

  CHAPTER XXVII The Glacier Garden--Excursion on the Lake--Life on theMountains--A Specimen Tourist--"Where're you From?"--An AdvertisingDodge--A Righteous Verdict--The Guide-book Student--I Believe that's All

  CHAPTER XXVIII The Rigi-Kulm--Its Ascent--Stripping for Business--AMountain Lad--An English Tourist--Railroad up the Mountain--Villages andMountain--The Jodlers--About Ice Water--The Felsenthor--Too Late--Lostin the Fog--The Rigi-Kulm Hotel--The Alpine Horn--Sunrise at Night

  CHAPTER XXIX Everything Convenient--Looking for a WesternSunrise--Mutual Recrimination--View from the Summit--Down theMountain--Railroading--Confidence Wanted and Acquired

  CHAPTER XXX A Trip by Proxy--A Visit to the Furka Regions--Deadman'sLake--Source of the Rhone--Glacier Tables--Storm in the Mountains--AtGrindelwald--Dawn on the Mountains--An Explanation Required--DeadLanguage--Criticism of Harris's Report

  CHAPTER XXXI Preparations for a Tramp--From Lucerne to Interlaken--TheBrunig Pass--Modern and Ancient Chalets--Death of Pontius Pilate--HermitHome of St Nicholas--Landslides--Children Selling Refreshments--How theyHarness a Horse--A Great Man--Honors to a Hero--A Thirsty Bride--ForBetter or Worse--German Fashions--Anticipations--Solid Comfort--AnUnsatisfactory Awakening--What we had Lost--Our Surroundings

  CHAPTER XXXII The Jungfrau Hotel--A Whiskered Waitress--An ArkansasBride--Perfection in Discord--A Famous Victory--A Look from aWindow--About the Jungfrau

  CHAPTER XXXIII The Giesbach Falls--The Spirit of the Alps--Why PeopleVisit Them--Whey and Grapes as Medicines--The Kursaal--A FormidableUndertaking--From Interlaken to Zermatt on Foot--We Concluded to takea Buggy--A Pair of Jolly Drivers--We meet with Companions--A CheerfulRide--Kandersteg Valley--An Alpine Parlor--Exercise and Amusement--ARace with a Log

  CHAPTER XXXIV An Old Guide--Possible Accidents--DangerousHabitation--Mountain Flowers--Embryo Lions--Mountain Pigs--The Endof The World--Ghastly Desolation--Proposed Adventure--Reading-upAdventures--Ascent of Monte Rosa--Precipices and Crevasses--Amongthe Snows--Exciting Experiences--lee Ridges--The Summit--AdventuresPostponed

  CHAPTER XXXV A New Interest--Magnificent Views--A Mule'sPrefereoces--Turning Mountain Corners--Terror of a Horse--LadyTourists--Death of a young Countess--A Search for a Hat--What We DidFind--Harris's Opinion of Chamois--A Disappointed Man--A Giantess--Modelfor an Empress--Baths at Leuk--Sport in the Water--The GemmiPrecipices--A Palace for an Emperor--The Famous Ladders--ConsiderablyMixed Up--Sad Plight of a Minister

  CHAPTER XXXVI Sunday Church Bells--A Cause of Profanity--A MagnificentGlacier--Fault Finding by Harris--Almost an Accident--Selfishness ofHarris--Approaching Zermatt--The Matterhorn--Zermatt--Home of MountainClimbers--Fitted out for Climbing--A Fearful Adventure --Never Satisfied

  CHAPTER XXXVII A Calm Decision--"I Will Ascend theRiffelberg"--Preparations for the Trip--All Zermatt on theAlert--Schedule of Persons and Things--An Unprecedented Display--AGeneral Turn--out--Ready for a Start--The Post of Danger--The AdvanceDirected--Grand Display of Umbrellas--The First Camp--Almost aPanic--Supposed to be Lost--The First Accident--A Chaplain Disabled--AnExperimenting Mule--Good Effects of a Blunder--Badly Lost--AReconnoiter--Mystery and Doubt--Stern Measures Taken--A Black Ram--Savedby a Miracle--The Guide's Guide

  CHAPTER XXXVIII Our Expedition Continued--Experiments with theBarometer--Boiling Thermometer--Barometer Soup--An InterestingScientific Discovery--Crippling a Latinist--A Chaplain Injured--Shortof Barkeepers--Digging a Mountain Cellar--A Young AmericanSpecimen--Somebody's Grandson--Arrival at Riffelberg Botel--Ascent ofGorner Grat--Faith in Thermometers--The Matterhorn

  CHAPTER XXXIX Guide Books--Plans for the Return of the Expedition--AGlacier Train--Parachute Descent from Gorner Grat--Proposed Honorsto Harris Declined--All had an Excuse--A Magnificent IdeaAbandoned--Descent to the Glacier--A Supposed Leak--A Slow Train--TheGlacier Abandoned--Journey to Zermatt--A Scientific Question

  CHAPTER XL Glaciers--Glacier Perils--Moraines--TerminalMoraines--Lateral Moraines--Immense Size of Glacier--TravelingGlacier----General Movements of Glaciers--Ascent of Mont Blacc--Lossof Guides--Finding of Remains--Meeting of Old Friends--The Dead andLiving--Proposed Museum--The Relics at Chamonix

  CHAPTER XLI The Matterhorn Catastrophe of 1563--Mr Whymper'sNarrative--Ascent of the Matterhorn--The Summit--The MatterhornConquered--The Descent Commenced--A Fearful Disaster--Death of LordDouglas and Two Others--The Graves of the Two

  CHAPTER XLII Switzerland--Graveyard at Zermatt--Balloting forMarriage--Farmers as Heroes--Falling off a Farm--From St Nicholas toVisp--Dangerous Traveling--Children's Play--The Parson's Children--ALandlord's Daughter--A Rare Combination--Ch iIIon--Lost Sympathy--MontBlanc and its Neighbors--Beauty of Soap Bubbles--A Wild Drive--The Kingof Drivers--Benefit of getting Drunk

  CHAPTER XLIII Chamonix--Contrasts--Magnificent Spectacle--The Guildof Guides--The Guide--in--Chief--The Returned Tourist--GettingDiploma--Rigid Rules--Unsuccessful Efforts to Procure a Diploma--TheRecord-Book--The Conqueror of Mont Blanc--Professional Jealousy--Triumph of Truth--Mountain Music--Its Effect--A Hunt for a Nuisance

  CHAPTER XLIV Looking at Mont Blanc--Telescopic Effect--A ProposedTrip--Determination and Courage--The Cost all counted----Ascent ofMont Blanc by Telescope--Safe and Rapid Return--Diplomas Asked for andRefused--Disaster of 1866--The Brave Brothers--Wonderful Endurance andPluck--Love Making on Mont Blanc--First Ascent of a Woman--SensibleAttire

  CHAPTER XLV A Catastrophe which Cost Eleven Lives--Accident of 1870--AParty of Eleven--A Fearful Storm--Note-books of the Victims--Within FiveMinutes of Safety--Facing Death Resignedly

  CHAPTER XLVI The Hotel des Pyramids--The Glacier des Bossons--One ofthe Shows--Premeditated Crime--Saved Again--Tourists Warned--Adviceto Tourists--The Two Empresses--The Glacier Toll Collector--PureIce Water--Death Rate of the World--Of Various Cities--A PleasureExcursionist--A Diligence Ride--A Satisfied Englishman

  CHAPTER XLVII Geneva--Shops of Geneva--Elasticity of Prices--Persistencyof Shop-Women--The High Pressure System--How a Dandy was brought toGrief--American Manners--Gallantry--Col Baker of London--ArkansawJustice--Safety of Women in America--Town of Chambery--A LivelyPlace--At Turin--A Railroad Companion--An Insulted Woman--City ofTurin--Italian Honesty--A Small Mistake --Robbing a Beggar Woman

  CHAPTER XLVIII In Milan--The Arcade--Incidents we Met With--ThePedlar--Children--The Honest Conductor--Heavy Stocks of Clothing--TheQuarrelsome Italians--Great Smoke and Little Fire--The Cathedral--Stylein Church--The Old Masters--Tintoretto's great Picture--EmotionalTourists--Basson's Famed Picture--The Hair Trunk

  CHAPTER XLIX In Venice--St Mark's Cathedral--Discovery of anAntique--The Riches of St Mark's--A Church Robber--Trusting Secrets to aFriend --The Robber Hanged--A Private Dinner--European Food

  CHAPTER L Why Some things Are--Art in Rome and Florence--The Fig LeafMania--Titian's Venus--Difference between Seeing and Describing A Realwork of Art--Titian's Moses--Home

  APPENDIX

  A--The Portier analyzed

  B--Hiedelberg Castle Described

  C--The College Prison and Inmates

  D--The Awful German Language

  E--Legends of the Castle

  F--The Journals of Germany